⏱ 10-12 min read
📅 Updated Apr 2026
🔍 1 Watch Reviewed
The De Bethune DB28XS Dark Sand is a refined, ultra-thin evolution of the DB28 line, blending avant-garde design, a 6-day manual in-house movement, and exceptional finishing in a wearable 38.7mm zirconium case.
Few independent watchmakers dare to challenge convention as boldly as De Bethune. Known for its cosmic aesthetics and relentless innovation, the brand has carved out a unique space in haute horlogerie.
The DB28XS Dark Sand is a refined continuation of that philosophy—taking the sculptural DNA of the DB28 and distilling it into a slimmer, more wearable form without losing its futuristic soul. It is both technical and poetic, a watch that feels as though it belongs equally in a laboratory and on the wrist of a collector.
Case & Wearability: Sculpted in Zirconium
The DB28XS Dark Sand is housed in a 38.7mm matte anthracite zirconium case, measuring just 8mm thick—a remarkable feat considering the complexity within.
Zirconium is rarely seen in watchmaking, yet it perfectly suits De Bethune’s vision. Its dark, matte finish absorbs light, giving the watch a stealthy, almost celestial presence. At the same time, it is lightweight and durable, enhancing everyday wearability.
The patented floating lugs, introduced by De Bethune in 2006, remain one of the most ergonomic innovations in modern watch design. They adapt seamlessly to the wrist, ensuring comfort that belies the watch’s architectural form.
Dial: A Dark, Textured Universe
The dial of the DB28XS Dark Sand is less a traditional display and more an artistic composition.
A black sandblasted titanium base creates a deep, matte backdrop. Over it sits an anthracite barrel bridge cover adorned with barleycorn guilloché, offering a refined contrast of texture and light. The bevelled and polished chamfers catch subtle reflections, adding depth to the monochromatic palette.
Signature polished purple titanium hands glide across the dial, accompanied by a circular satin-brushed hour ring with matching markers. This distinctive hue—one of De Bethune’s trademarks—shifts beautifully depending on lighting conditions, injecting life into the otherwise shadowy aesthetic.
Movement: Six Days of Innovation
At the heart of the DB28XS Dark Sand lies the in-house DB2 115V13 manual-winding calibre, a movement that exemplifies De Bethune’s technical ingenuity.
Key Features:
• 6-day power reserve via twin self-regulating barrels (De Bethune innovation)
• 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz)
• 241 components, 36 jewels
• Silicon escape wheel for efficiency
One of the standout innovations is the titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, engineered for optimal performance across temperature variations and improved aerodynamics. This is paired with the brand’s patented balance spring featuring a flat terminal curve.
Durability is enhanced by the triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system, ensuring resilience without compromising precision.
Turn the watch over, and the sapphire caseback reveals a linear power reserve indicator, a discreet yet highly practical complication that aligns with the watch’s minimalist front.
Finishing: The Art of Detail
De Bethune’s reputation for finishing is fully realized here. Every component is meticulously handcrafted:
• Polished and bevelled edges
• Sandblasted and satin finishes
• Intricate guilloché engraving
The interplay of textures—matte, polished, and engraved—creates a constantly evolving visual experience. This is not decoration for its own sake; it is an expression of craftsmanship at the highest level.
Strap & Everyday Versatility
The DB28XS Dark Sand is paired with a textile and leather strap, secured by a matte zirconium pin buckle. This combination enhances comfort while maintaining the watch’s modern aesthetic.
With a water resistance of 3 ATM, it is suitable for daily wear but remains firmly in the realm of refined, non-sport timepieces.
Specifications
Feature | Details |
Model | DB28XS Dark Sand |
Reference | DB28XSSWZ |
Case Material | Matte anthracite zirconium |
Case Diameter | 38.7 mm |
Thickness | 8 mm |
Movement | DB2 115V13 manual-winding |
Power Reserve | 6 days |
Frequency | 28,800 vph |
Jewels | 36 |
Crystal | Sapphire, double anti-reflective |
Water Resistance | 3 ATM |
Strap | Textile/leather |
Who Is It For?
The DB28XS Dark Sand is designed for collectors who appreciate:
• Independent watchmaking excellence
• Technical innovation paired with artistry
• Distinctive, non-traditional aesthetics
• Wearable haute horlogerie
It is not a watch that blends in—it is one that quietly commands attention.
Final Thoughts
The De Bethune DB28XS Dark Sand is a masterful reinterpretation of one of modern watchmaking’s most iconic designs. By refining the proportions and embracing a darker, more understated palette, De Bethune has created a piece that feels both contemporary and timeless.
In an industry often driven by nostalgia, this watch looks firmly toward the future—without forgetting the craftsmanship that defines true haute horlogerie.
FAQ
Is the De Bethune DB28XS Dark Sand suitable as a dress watch?
Yes, thanks to its slim 8mm profile, though its avant-garde design makes it versatile beyond formal settings.
What is special about the DB2 115V13 movement?
It features a 6-day power reserve, advanced balance wheel technology, and multiple patented innovations by De Bethune.
What material is used for the case?
The case is made from matte anthracite zirconium, offering durability, lightness, and a unique aesthetic.
Can this watch be worn daily?
Yes, it is comfortable and wearable daily, though it is not intended for sports or water activities.
[photo credit: www.debethune.ch]
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