In the ever-evolving world of luxury Swiss horology, few timepieces capture the spirit of avant-garde artistry and mechanical ingenuity like the Maurice Lacroix MASTERPIECE Skeleton Label Noir. Born from a remarkable partnership between the Jura-based watchmaker and the creative Genevan design studio Label Noir, this limited-edition masterpiece pushes the envelope of design and innovation. By marrying the essence of haute horlogerie with an urban monochromatic aesthetic, the MASTERPIECE Skeleton Label Noir stands as a statement of both legacy and modernity. With only 288 pieces available worldwide, it is more than just a watch—it is a collectible work of mechanical art.
In this detailed review, we will dive deep into the origins, aesthetics, technical details, and emotional appeal of this extraordinary wristwatch while highlighting the collaborative synergy that brought it to life. Whether you’re a connoisseur, collector, or someone discovering the art of watchmaking, this article provides the ultimate insight into one of Maurice Lacroix’s most refined creations to date.
However, it was in 2020 that Maurice Lacroix first teamed up with Label Noir, a Geneva-based customization expert known for its minimalist yet impactful black-and-white reinterpretations of existing watch designs. That debut collaboration was the AIKON Label Noir, a model that sold out within minutes and became an instant classic. Fast forward to today, and the two creative forces have joined hands once again—this time to breathe new life into one of the brand’s most technically intricate collections: the MASTERPIECE Skeleton.
This is where form meets function in the most poetic way possible. Skeletonization—a technique that dates back to the 18th century—has always been about revealing what is typically hidden. In this watch, Maurice Lacroix and Label Noir take it a step further by dramatizing the exposed mechanics through their expert use of materials and finishes.
The black DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon)-plated case forms the canvas, while the matte black-plated hands with white Super-LumiNova accents ensure legibility in all lighting conditions. The entire presentation evokes a sense of stealth, power, and sophistication.
Using advanced CAD (Computer Aided Design) and precision machining via CNC (Computer Numerical Control), the brand’s engineers optimized the mainplate and bridges to ensure the rigidity, reliability, and stability of the movement. This approach eliminates the common structural weaknesses associated with traditional skeletonization methods, where hand-sawing and filing sometimes compromise the movement’s integrity.
• Power Reserve: 45 hours
• Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
• Decoration: PVD-plated components, sand-blasted main bridges, Grand Colimaçon spiraling patterns, and polished beveled edges
• Jewels: 19
This intricate calibre is visible from both sides of the watch, offering an immersive experience for anyone who appreciates fine watchmaking.
The openworked spring barrel allows the wearer to observe the tension in the mainspring, offering an interactive visual indicator of the watch’s energy state. The gear train, motion works, and keyless works are fully visible and demonstrate the brand’s transparent approach to craftsmanship.
In essence, this is not just a watch—it’s a miniature kinetic sculpture on the wrist.
• Height: 13 mm
• Material: Gunmetal DLC-plated stainless steel
• Front Glass: Sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating
• Case Back: Exhibition sapphire glass with anti-reflective coating
• Water Resistance: 5 ATM (50 meters)
Despite its substantial size, the ergonomics are excellent. The case hugs the wrist comfortably, and the black nylon strap with Maurice Lacroix’s ‘M’ logo adds a casual yet sophisticated flair.
The strap not only contributes to the lightweight comfort of the timepiece but also complements its urban aesthetic, making it suitable for both formal and casual settings.
Their influence is especially evident in the subtle play of textures and finishes across the watch. Whether it’s the grainy sand-blasted movement surfaces, the polished bevels, or the matte DLC case, every element is carefully chosen to catch and reflect light in intriguing ways.
While it exudes luxury in both appearance and execution, the MASTERPIECE Skeleton Label Noir remains true to Maurice Lacroix’s commitment to offering high-perceived value. Compared to other skeletonized watches with in-house calibers and boutique collaborations, this limited edition delivers impressive value without compromising on quality or craftsmanship.
Given the success of the previous AIKON Label Noir edition, which sold out almost instantly, there’s little doubt that this model will follow the same trajectory. Its unique aesthetic and mechanical pedigree ensure that it will remain a timeless piece of modern horological history.
For the collector who appreciates form and function, for the aesthete who craves contrast, and for the horological purist who values movement architecture, this timepiece ticks every box. Its skeletonized caliber is not only technically sound but also mesmerizing in motion. And its bold aesthetic, driven by Label Noir’s masterful restraint, adds layers of sophistication seldom seen in watches at this price point.
In a world overflowing with look-alike timepieces and marketing fluff, the MASTERPIECE Skeleton Label Noir stands out—not just for what it shows, but for what it dares to reveal.
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[photo credits: Maurice Lacroix / www.mauricelacroix.com]
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The Origins of Collaboration: Maurice Lacroix and Label Noir
Where Innovation Meets Customization
The idea of collaboration is nothing new in the luxury watch industry, but Maurice Lacroix has mastered the art of finding the right partners. This is not the brand’s first foray into creative alliances—previous collaborations with Monocle, Wallpaper, and even a surprising partnership with Stoff & Schnapps for the AIKONIC Gin have showcased the brand’s flair for innovation.However, it was in 2020 that Maurice Lacroix first teamed up with Label Noir, a Geneva-based customization expert known for its minimalist yet impactful black-and-white reinterpretations of existing watch designs. That debut collaboration was the AIKON Label Noir, a model that sold out within minutes and became an instant classic. Fast forward to today, and the two creative forces have joined hands once again—this time to breathe new life into one of the brand’s most technically intricate collections: the MASTERPIECE Skeleton.
Introducing the MASTERPIECE Skeleton Label Noir: Design Philosophy
A Dialogue Between Light and Shadow
The MASTERPIECE Skeleton Label Noir is more than a visual reinterpretation—it is a philosophical statement about transparency, contrast, and balance. Label Noir’s signature palette of black, anthracite, and white creates a theatrical play of light and shade across the openworked architecture of the timepiece.
The black DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon)-plated case forms the canvas, while the matte black-plated hands with white Super-LumiNova accents ensure legibility in all lighting conditions. The entire presentation evokes a sense of stealth, power, and sophistication.
Movement Matters: The Manufacture ML134 Caliber
Precision Born in Saignelégier
At the heart of the MASTERPIECE Skeleton Label Noir beats the ML134, a manual-winding, in-house calibre developed entirely by Maurice Lacroix. This is not merely a movement that has been stripped of unnecessary metal; rather, it has been purposefully engineered to be skeletonized from the ground up.Using advanced CAD (Computer Aided Design) and precision machining via CNC (Computer Numerical Control), the brand’s engineers optimized the mainplate and bridges to ensure the rigidity, reliability, and stability of the movement. This approach eliminates the common structural weaknesses associated with traditional skeletonization methods, where hand-sawing and filing sometimes compromise the movement’s integrity.
Key features of the ML134 include:
• Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz)• Power Reserve: 45 hours
• Functions: Hours, minutes, and seconds
• Decoration: PVD-plated components, sand-blasted main bridges, Grand Colimaçon spiraling patterns, and polished beveled edges
• Jewels: 19
This intricate calibre is visible from both sides of the watch, offering an immersive experience for anyone who appreciates fine watchmaking.
A Horological Theater: The Mechanical Display
A Spectacle in Motion
The real charm of the MASTERPIECE Skeleton Label Noir lies in its mechanical performance—a show that unfolds with every glance at the wrist. Situated just beneath the 12 o’clock position, the screwed balance wheel can be seen oscillating rhythmically, accompanied by the graceful expansion and contraction of the hairspring and the precise clicking of the pallet lever.
In essence, this is not just a watch—it’s a miniature kinetic sculpture on the wrist.
A Closer Look at the Case: Rugged Refinement
Dimensions and Materials That Command Respect
The MASTERPIECE Skeleton Label Noir is housed in a 43mm case made of stainless steel with a distinctive gunmetal DLC coating. The surface alternates between brushed and polished finishes, creating a visually dynamic interplay under different lighting conditions.Key case specifications:
• Diameter: 43 mm• Height: 13 mm
• Material: Gunmetal DLC-plated stainless steel
• Front Glass: Sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating
• Case Back: Exhibition sapphire glass with anti-reflective coating
• Water Resistance: 5 ATM (50 meters)
Despite its substantial size, the ergonomics are excellent. The case hugs the wrist comfortably, and the black nylon strap with Maurice Lacroix’s ‘M’ logo adds a casual yet sophisticated flair.
Strap and Buckle: Comfort Meets Design
Thoughtful Details, Everyday Wearability
The included strap is a black nylon band that offers both durability and elegance. It’s paired with a black DLC-coated butterfly clasp, ensuring secure fastening while maintaining the watch’s stealthy look.
The Label Noir Influence: Monochrome Mastery
Crafting Contrast With Restraint
Label Noir is known for its disciplined yet daring design language, and this project is a shining example. Their ability to turn monochrome into a multidimensional experience is truly remarkable. While some brands rely on colors or complications to attract attention, Label Noir’s genius lies in making black and white look infinitely expressive.Their influence is especially evident in the subtle play of textures and finishes across the watch. Whether it’s the grainy sand-blasted movement surfaces, the polished bevels, or the matte DLC case, every element is carefully chosen to catch and reflect light in intriguing ways.
Swiss Craftsmanship and Value Proposition
Hand-Assembled Excellence
Maurice Lacroix prides itself on its Swiss manufacture capabilities, and the MASTERPIECE Skeleton Label Noir is a testament to that. Every component is hand-finished and assembled in the brand’s Saignelégier workshops, ensuring the highest levels of precision and durability.
Collectibility and Exclusivity
Limited to 288 Pieces
As with all great collaborations, scarcity adds to desirability. The MASTERPIECE Skeleton Label Noir is limited to just 288 pieces worldwide, making it an exclusive acquisition for seasoned collectors and newcomers alike.Given the success of the previous AIKON Label Noir edition, which sold out almost instantly, there’s little doubt that this model will follow the same trajectory. Its unique aesthetic and mechanical pedigree ensure that it will remain a timeless piece of modern horological history.
Final Thoughts: A Timepiece for the Modern Connoisseur
The Maurice Lacroix MASTERPIECE Skeleton Label Noir is not merely a watch—it’s an exercise in creative engineering, a visual symphony of contrasts, and a powerful expression of individuality. It exemplifies what can happen when two visionary entities come together to blur the boundaries between art, mechanics, and design.
In a world overflowing with look-alike timepieces and marketing fluff, the MASTERPIECE Skeleton Label Noir stands out—not just for what it shows, but for what it dares to reveal.
Keywords: Maurice Lacroix MASTERPIECE Skeleton Label Noir, Maurice Lacroix Skeleton watch, Label Noir collaboration watch, in-house skeleton movement, Swiss luxury skeleton watch, limited edition Maurice Lacroix, skeletonized wristwatch, mechanical watch artistry, modern horology, Maurice Lacroix review
[photo credits: Maurice Lacroix / www.mauricelacroix.com]
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