MB&F SP One Review: A New Era of Elegant Mechanical Artistry

The new MB&F SP One is a stunning 38mm time-only wristwatch blending elegance, innovation, and mechanical mastery in platinum or rose gold.

Introduction: A Surprising Evolution in MB&F’s DNA

For two decades, MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends) has redefined haute horlogerie with radical and unorthodox mechanical sculptures on the wrist. From the kinetic creatures of the Horological Machine (HM) series to the finely balanced symmetry of the Legacy Machines (LM), MB&F has carved a unique niche, blending science fiction, horological tradition, and avant-garde artistry.

But what happens when MB&F turns its mechanical mastery toward a compact, time-only, 38mm wristwatch?

Enter the MB&F SP One – a groundbreaking creation that forgoes the extreme in favor of restraint, yet still dazzles with its imaginative complexity. This watch doesn’t scream; it whispers excellence.

The “Special Projects” Collection: A New Creative Frontier

The SP One marks the launch of MB&F’s new “Special Projects” line – an undefinable category sitting somewhere between the Horological and Legacy Machines. It offers a third creative path, one that allows MB&F to explore fresh design philosophies unbound by past rules.

Originally nicknamed “Three Circles” during development, the SP One is all about floating forms, quiet elegance, and hidden complexity. It’s MB&F’s most wearable and refined creation to date, but beneath that sophisticated surface lies a horological tour de force.

Design & Case: A Pebble with a Pulse

At first glance, the MB&F SP One is an exercise in minimalism. Encased in a 38mm pebble-like shell, the watch invites touch and admiration. The case features no bezel, creating a seamless flow of sapphire and precious metal that feels organic and fluid.

Case Dimensions and Specifications:

• Diameter: 38mm

• Height: 12mm

• Lug-to-Lug: 41.9mm

• Materials: Available in platinum 950 or 18K rose gold

• Water Resistance: 30m / 3ATM / 100 feet

• Crystals: Sapphire on both sides, anti-reflective coated


Detached lugs give the impression of levitation, reinforcing the overall aesthetic of floating, untethered elements. These subtle lugs are designed with ergonomic comfort in mind, allowing the watch to sit perfectly on wrists of various sizes.

Whether in platinum with a sky-blue bevelled flange or rose gold with an anthracite bevelled flange, the SP One radiates subtle luxury.

A Mechanical Stage: Three Floating Circles

MB&F describes the SP One as a stage. At the center, three floating elements perform a mesmerizing mechanical ballet: the barrel, the balance wheel, and the inclined time dial.

Each component is suspended inside the amphitheatre-like case, visible through what appear to be invisible sapphire domes. The illusion is stunning – these vital organs of the movement seem to hover freely in mid-air.

This floating architecture draws from MB&F’s legacy of 3D design but tones it down for elegance rather than eccentricity. Still, the horological theater is alive and well – especially with the balance wheel dancing gracefully in the center of the watch.

The Engine: In-House MB&F SP One Movement

Despite its modest size, the SP One is powered by one of MB&F’s most advanced in-house mechanical movements yet. Entirely manual-winding, the movement balances high performance with impeccable hand finishing and innovative mechanics.

Key Movement Specs:

• Manual winding mainspring barrel

• Power Reserve: 72 hours

• Balance Frequency: 2.5Hz (18,000 vph)

• Number of Components: 191

• Jewels: 31

• Inclined dial powered by conical gears

• Signature balance wheel at center

• Finishing: Superlative level with internal bevels, polished chamfers, hand-made engravings, anthracite bridges (ruthenium finish)

The inclined dial at 6 o’clock shows hours and minutes, using clever conical gearing that preserves readability while contributing to the multi-layered look. This is not just a design flourish – it’s a feat of mechanical engineering.

The balance wheel doesn’t just sit within the movement; it hovers, performing an aerial dance that appears detached from the rest of the movement. This illusion is achieved using a carefully constructed architecture that elevates each core component above the baseplate.

The Display: Sapphire Domes and Invisible Architecture

A significant part of the SP One’s charm lies in its presentation. The use of anti-reflective sapphire domes above the movement creates the illusion of nonexistence – as though there’s nothing between your eye and the watch’s internals.

This floating effect is particularly strong under natural light, with shadows dancing off the bevelled flanges and the hovering mechanics taking on a truly ethereal quality. It’s the kind of watch that demands close inspection but rewards with stunning visual poetry.

Strap & Buckle: Comfort Meets Elegance

True to its refined aesthetics, the MB&F SP One comes on a high-quality calfskin leather strap. The watch features an 18mm lug width, suitable for the slim and minimalistic case dimensions.

Buyers can expect the strap to be paired with a:

• White gold pin buckle (for the platinum edition)

• Rose gold pin buckle (for the rose gold edition)

 

The strap enhances the watch’s tactile, elegant presence while maintaining everyday wearability. Unlike many of MB&F’s more daring pieces, the SP One is wearable even in formal or business settings, providing versatility alongside luxury.

SP One vs. MB&F Legacy Machines and Horological Machines

While the Legacy Machine series leans heavily on symmetry and classical complications and the Horological Machines are known for bold, conceptual designs, the SP One carves a new path.

Comparison Highlights:

Feature	SP One	Legacy Machine	Horological Machine
Diameter	38mm	40–44mm	45mm+
Complications	Time-only	Multiple (date, power, chronograph)	Varied and experimental
Architecture	Floating barrel, balance, dial	Domed balance over main dial	Multi-module, layered
Style	Elegant, minimal, pebble-like	Neo-classical	Sci-fi inspired
Purpose	Special Projects	Traditional-meets-avant-garde	Unconventional art

Final Thoughts: A Pebble of Innovation

The MB&F SP One is perhaps the brand’s most paradoxical watch to date. On one hand, it’s the most wearable and understated timepiece MB&F has ever released. On the other, it contains some of the most innovative visual and mechanical features ever attempted in a time-only watch.

It’s an evolution, not a departure. The SP One retains MB&F’s daring 3D design, imaginative mechanics, and superior craftsmanship – but presents them in a refined, distilled form.

This is the kind of watch that collectors and connoisseurs will admire for its subtle genius. For those who’ve long admired MB&F’s vision but found their earlier pieces too avant-garde for daily wear, the SP One is the answer.

Who Is the MB&F SP One For?

• Collectors looking for mechanical innovation in a compact size

• Watch enthusiasts who appreciate time-only elegance

• Fans of MB&F wanting a more wearable timepiece

• Aficionados of floating mechanics and high-end finishing

• Buyers interested in platinum or rose gold minimalist luxury

Estimated Pricing & Availability

MB&F has yet to announce final retail pricing at the time of writing, but expectations are that each edition – platinum and rose gold – will fall within the six-figure range, consistent with MB&F’s previous limited-edition masterpieces.

The SP One will likely be offered in limited numbers, reinforcing its exclusivity and positioning as the inaugural piece in the brand’s new Special Projects line.

Conclusion: A Gravity-Defying Symphony in 38mm

With the SP One, MB&F has achieved something truly remarkable: a minimalistic time-only watch that still embodies their full creative DNA. Floating elements, invisible architecture, and artisanal craftsmanship all come together in a piece that turns the act of telling time into a poetic performance.

The SP One doesn’t just mark a new chapter for MB&F – it sets a new benchmark for what an elegant, futuristic mechanical watch can be.

[photo credits: MB&F / www.mbandf.com]

Keywords: MB&F SP One, MB&F SP One review, MB&F Special Projects watch, MB&F time-only watch, elegant mechanical watches, luxury watch platinum rose gold, 38mm luxury watch, MB&F SP One movement, best time-only watches 2025, three-dimensional watch design

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