Independent Dutch marque Holthinrichs has carved a niche for itself in the haute-horlogerie world by combining cutting-edge manufacturing (notably 3D metal printing) with bold architectural design and artisanal finishing. Their latest limited edition, the Signature Ornament LAB Series 1.24, is a standout — a limited run of just 79 pieces, pairing 3D-printed Grade 5 titanium architecture with a finely finished patina dial and applied 24 k-gold leaf.
In this review we’ll walk through what makes this piece special, how it performs on the wrist, and whether it offers value in the context of today’s independent watch market.
At first glance the LAB Series 1.24 makes a strong visual impression. The case diameter of 38.5 mm paired with a lug-to-lug length of 46 mm gives it compact proportions on paper, yet the sculptural lug architecture lengthens and visually amplifies its presence.
The thickness is quoted at 7.8 mm without crystal, and 9.85 mm including the domed sapphire crystal. The case is said to weigh just 37.7 grams (without strap).
What sets this piece apart is the 3D-printed Grade 5 titanium case. The brand describes the process: selective laser melting of up to 45 cases per build plate, followed by milling and extensive hand-finishing. The lugs are effectively skeletonised and curve elegantly around the case, hugging the wrist in a unique way.
From a finishing standpoint, the case bears both raw 3D-printed textures (especially on the case back) and hand-refined surfaces on the more visible sides. That mix of industrial and refined gives it an appealing duality: high tech, yet handcrafted. The result is sculptural and organic, more wearable art than standard wristwatch.
On the wrist it reportedly wears very comfortably, thanks to the low mass and ergonomics of the curve and lug design.
Possibly the most captivating element of the LAB 1.24 is the dial. The process is fascinating: a brass blank is milled, then hand-carved to create texture, then subjected to a forced patina process (electrolysis + heat treatment) to form a copper oxide layer that results in a distinctive green-tinged patinated finish. Afterwards, the dials are sent to Scotland to the atelier of Chris Alexander (aka The Dial Artist) who applies 24-carat gold leaf by hand, adding glimmers of warmth and life across the surface.
The minimalist white pad-printed logo leaves room for the organic dial textures to speak for themselves. Every dial is effectively a one-of-one artwork — no two LAB Series 1.24 pieces will ever look identical.
The result is a dial that looks more like a piece of contemporary art than a typical watch face. It lives up to the brand’s “Horlogerie Brut” philosophy: the beauty of raw materials, textures and naturally developed finishes. The hour markers appear to “float” above the dial surface via a peripheral flange, adding depth and three-dimensionality.
Inside the LAB Series 1.24 is a top-grade Sellita SW-300 automatic movement, with 28,800 vph and 42-hour power reserve.
While not an in-house manufacture calibre, it is a dependable and well-known movement that helps keep the price of the watch in check without compromising reliability. The Sellita calibre is a dependable, serviceable movement choice that ensures longevity without overshadowing the watch’s artisanal focus.
The rotor is produced in-house and captures the spirit of the dial: tungsten weight with patinated finish (subtle blue/purple tones) via an acid/heat process. You can see that industrial poetry in motion through the transparent caseback.
The Holthinrichs Signature Ornament LAB Series 1.24 is a bold statement watch. It offers a compelling blend of modern manufacturing (3D-printed titanium), artisanal dial finishing (patina + 24 k gold leaf), strong design language and independent brand provenance. For collectors who value individuality, craftsmanship and design expression, this piece delivers a lot of “character” for the price.
In short: if you are drawn to independent watches, appreciate architectural case design, enjoy artisanal finishing and want something collectible and limited—then the LAB Series 1.24 is a strong candidate. If you are after the most legible, tool-watch oriented, traditional piece—for the same budget—you might look elsewhere.
Design & Case
At first glance the LAB Series 1.24 makes a strong visual impression. The case diameter of 38.5 mm paired with a lug-to-lug length of 46 mm gives it compact proportions on paper, yet the sculptural lug architecture lengthens and visually amplifies its presence.
The thickness is quoted at 7.8 mm without crystal, and 9.85 mm including the domed sapphire crystal. The case is said to weigh just 37.7 grams (without strap).
On the wrist it reportedly wears very comfortably, thanks to the low mass and ergonomics of the curve and lug design.
Strengths:
• Unique case architecture leveraging modern manufacturing methods.
• Light weight (37.7 g) and compact diameter increase wearable appeal despite bold styling.
• Finishing combines high tech and artisanal, giving visual depth and character.
Potential weaknesses:
• The visual language is very distinct — the skeletonised lugs and industrial aesthetic may not appeal to traditionalists.
• With a thickness nearing 10 mm including crystal, in dress watch terms it’s not ultra-thin (though still quite good given the execution).
Dial & Aesthetics
Possibly the most captivating element of the LAB 1.24 is the dial. The process is fascinating: a brass blank is milled, then hand-carved to create texture, then subjected to a forced patina process (electrolysis + heat treatment) to form a copper oxide layer that results in a distinctive green-tinged patinated finish. Afterwards, the dials are sent to Scotland to the atelier of Chris Alexander (aka The Dial Artist) who applies 24-carat gold leaf by hand, adding glimmers of warmth and life across the surface.
The result is a dial that looks more like a piece of contemporary art than a typical watch face. It lives up to the brand’s “Horlogerie Brut” philosophy: the beauty of raw materials, textures and naturally developed finishes. The hour markers appear to “float” above the dial surface via a peripheral flange, adding depth and three-dimensionality.
It’s an aesthetic statement: a meeting between chaos and order, technology and tradition. The overall impression is mesmerizing.
In Internet reviews, the dial elicits strong reactions: for some, it’s spellbinding. For others, legibility and traditional watch aesthetics may suffer a bit for the sake of the artistic gesture.
In Internet reviews, the dial elicits strong reactions: for some, it’s spellbinding. For others, legibility and traditional watch aesthetics may suffer a bit for the sake of the artistic gesture.
Strengths:
• Highly original dial design, richly finished and individually unique.
• Strong narrative: patina process, collaboration with a dial-artist, meaningful material story.
• Good depth and texture, making it much more than “just another dial”.
Potential weaknesses:
• Aesthetic may be polarising: those looking for clean symmetry and classical dial design may find it too expressive.
• Legibility may be compromised in low-contrast lighting conditions.
• For some buyers, the novelty may overshadow traditional useful features (e.g., lume is absent or minimal).
Movement & Strap
Inside the LAB Series 1.24 is a top-grade Sellita SW-300 automatic movement, with 28,800 vph and 42-hour power reserve.
The rotor is produced in-house and captures the spirit of the dial: tungsten weight with patinated finish (subtle blue/purple tones) via an acid/heat process. You can see that industrial poetry in motion through the transparent caseback.
The strap is cognac-toned “rooster-leg” leather, 20/16 mm, with a titanium buckle and pin. The strap’s exotic texture complements the copper patina dial perfectly, enhancing the warm, organic tone of the entire watch.
On the wrist the LAB Series 1.24 reportedly wears smaller than its 46 mm lug-to-lug thanks to the sculpted lugs and lightweight titanium build. Reviewers mention comfort and a “floating” feel.
Visually, it certainly draws attention. The case shape, the dial finish, the overall concept—it’s a conversation piece. It is clearly not a conservative “under-radar” watch. If you’re looking for something with distinctive character that blends engineering and craft, this fits.
However, if you require high legibility, strong lume, diving credentials or a pure tool-watch ethos, this may not be the best fit. Holthinrichs themselves position it as part of their “LAB” experimental line, part of the brand’s laboratory for innovation and expressive design.
The watch is priced at €5,900 (ex. VAT, including international shipping). It is limited to 79 pieces (a nod to gold’s atomic number, 79). First deliveries are expected before end of 2025.
In the realm of independent watches, a sub-€6k entry for a 3D-printed titanium case, hand-finished dial, and boutique branding is competitive. Still, some commentators have questioned the premium relative to movement spec. Others counter that the value is in the design, finish, manufacturing method and limited nature rather than just the movement.
Strengths:
• Durable and well-regarded SW-300 base movement gives trustworthy timekeeping.
• Unique rotor finishing enhances the caseback spectacle and coheres with overall design.
• Strap material and titanium buckle align with the high-quality execution and theme.
Potential weaknesses:
• No in-house movement may detract from “pure” haute-horlogerie semantics for some buyers.
• The unusual strap material may not suit all tastes or bracelet-preferring collectors.
Wearability & Real-World Use
On the wrist the LAB Series 1.24 reportedly wears smaller than its 46 mm lug-to-lug thanks to the sculpted lugs and lightweight titanium build. Reviewers mention comfort and a “floating” feel.
However, if you require high legibility, strong lume, diving credentials or a pure tool-watch ethos, this may not be the best fit. Holthinrichs themselves position it as part of their “LAB” experimental line, part of the brand’s laboratory for innovation and expressive design.
Pricing & Exclusivity
The watch is priced at €5,900 (ex. VAT, including international shipping). It is limited to 79 pieces (a nod to gold’s atomic number, 79). First deliveries are expected before end of 2025.
In the realm of independent watches, a sub-€6k entry for a 3D-printed titanium case, hand-finished dial, and boutique branding is competitive. Still, some commentators have questioned the premium relative to movement spec. Others counter that the value is in the design, finish, manufacturing method and limited nature rather than just the movement.
Quick Specs Recap
Specification | Details |
Case | 3D-Printed Titanium Grade 5 |
Diameter | 38.5 mm |
Thickness | 7.8 mm (9.85 mm with crystal) |
Lug-to-Lug | 46 mm |
Weight | 37.7 grams (without strap) |
Dial | Handmade domed copper patina with 24 k gold leaf |
Movement | Top-grade Sellita SW-300 Automatic |
Strap | Cognac Rooster Leg Leather (20/16 mm) |
Water Resistance | 30 m |
Edition | Limited to 79 pieces |
Price | € 5,900 (ex. VAT, shipping included) |
Availability | Expected before end of 2025 |
Final Verdict
The Holthinrichs Signature Ornament LAB Series 1.24 is a bold statement watch. It offers a compelling blend of modern manufacturing (3D-printed titanium), artisanal dial finishing (patina + 24 k gold leaf), strong design language and independent brand provenance. For collectors who value individuality, craftsmanship and design expression, this piece delivers a lot of “character” for the price.
If I were to summarise:
What I love
• Truly inventive case design – the lugs and structure are off-beat and highly wearable.
• Dial finishing with patina + gold leaf gives each piece uniqueness and strong visual appeal.
• Lightweight and compact diameter make it comfortable despite its avant-garde looks.
• Independent branding: you’re buying something distinct, not a mainstream watch.
What you should keep in mind
• The aesthetic is niche – it won’t suit everyone, especially if you favour classic proportions or maximal legibility.
• The movement is outsourced (Sellita SW-300) — acceptable, but for some price-sensitive buyers this may matter.
• Features such as strong lume or high water-resistance are not the focus – this is more an art-object watch than a sports tool.
• As always with limited editions, future resale may fluctuate according to demand for “bold indie” pieces.
Pros:
✅ Unique 3D-printed titanium architecture
✅ Handmade patina dial with real gold leaf
✅ Extremely lightweight and ergonomic
✅ Beautifully finished Sellita SW-300 movement with custom rotor
✅ True independent character and limited to 79 pieces
Cons:
⚠️ Not in-house movement
⚠️ Artistic dial may reduce legibility in low light
⚠️ Bold design may polarize traditional collectors
Final Score:
⭐ Design & Materials — 9/10
⭐ Movement — 7.5/10
⭐ Craftsmanship — 9.5/10
⭐ Overall Originality — 9/10
In short: if you are drawn to independent watches, appreciate architectural case design, enjoy artisanal finishing and want something collectible and limited—then the LAB Series 1.24 is a strong candidate. If you are after the most legible, tool-watch oriented, traditional piece—for the same budget—you might look elsewhere.
[photo credits: holthinrichswatches.com]
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