⏱ 5-7 min read
📅 Updated Sep 2026
🔍 1 Watch Reviewed
Rolex has expanded its refined Perpetual collection with the Perpetual Padellone—a 39 mm instantaneous complete annual calendar that pairs poetic moonphase display with serious modern engineering. Drawing its name from the collector-beloved 1940s–50s reference 8171 (nicknamed “Padellone,” Italian for large frying pan), this new model translates a classic complete-calendar layout into a contemporary dress watch powered by the exclusive calibre 7190.
The dial is a standout. Most of the surface carries a grained finish, bordered by a fine satin edge that hosts the peripheral date scale. A blue centre hand tipped with a crescent moon tracks the date. Twin apertures at 12 o’clock display the day and month in English.
.webp "18 ct Everose gold with intense-white grained dial on Settimo bracelet (concealed Crownclasp)")
.webp "18 ct Everose gold with the same dial on matt-brown alligator strap (Dualclasp)")
.webp "950 platinum with ice-blue grained dial on matt-black alligator strap (Dualclasp)")
📅 Updated Sep 2026
🔍 1 Watch Reviewed
Design: Graceful Case and Textured Dial
The Padellone sits in a 39 mm case (approximately 12.2 mm thick) crafted in 18 ct Everose gold or 950 platinum. The bezel is both domed and subtly fluted, echoing the elegant proportions of the Perpetual 1908 while remaining distinctly dress-oriented.
A transparent sapphire case back reveals the movement’s finishing, including Rolex Côtes de Genève and a cut-out yellow-gold oscillating weight. Water resistance is a practical 50 metres—appropriate for a calendar watch focused on refinement rather than extreme sports use. Side correctors handle the calendar functions cleanly.
At 6 o’clock, a blue-enamelled moonphase disc completes one rotation every lunar month (29.53 days). The full moon and new moon are crafted from meteorite (the new moon receiving a dark-blue PVD coating), with pad-printed silver stars adding subtle celestial detail. Applied indices and open-tip hands (with Arabic numerals at 3 and 9) keep the look modern and legible.
Three configurations launch the watch:
.webp "18 ct Everose gold with intense-white grained dial on Settimo bracelet (concealed Crownclasp)")
- 18 ct Everose gold with intense-white grained dial on Settimo bracelet (concealed Crownclasp)
.webp "18 ct Everose gold with the same dial on matt-brown alligator strap (Dualclasp)")
- 18 ct Everose gold with the same dial on matt-brown alligator strap (Dualclasp)
.webp "950 platinum with ice-blue grained dial on matt-black alligator strap (Dualclasp)")
- 950 platinum with ice-blue grained dial on matt-black alligator strap (Dualclasp)
The Settimo’s seven-link construction feels light and wraps the wrist comfortably; the alligator options with Dualclasp offer a more traditional formal presence.
Quick Comparison
| Feature | Perpetual Padellone | Perpetual 1908 | Day-Date 40 | Sky-Dweller | Datejust 41 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Case Size | 39 mm | 39 mm | 40 mm | 42 mm | 41 mm |
| Thickness | ~12.2 mm | ~9.5–10.5 mm | ~12 mm | ~14.1 mm | ~11.8 mm |
| Movement | Calibre 7190 (5 Hz) | Calibre 7140 / 7135 | Calibre 3255 | Calibre 9002 | Calibre 3235 |
| Power Reserve | ~66 hours | ~66–72 hours | ~70 hours | ~72 hours | ~70 hours |
| Key Complications | Instant Annual Calendar + Moonphase |
Time-only | Day + Date | Annual Calendar + Dual Time |
Date |
| Calendar Type | Instantaneous Annual | None | Day-Date | Annual | Simple Date |
| Special Features | Haplos system Meteorite moons Dynapulse |
Elegant dress style | President bracelet | Ring Command bezel | Very versatile |
| Water Resistance | 50 m | 50 m | 100 m | 100 m | 100 m |
| Main Materials | Everose gold or Platinum |
Gold / Platinum | Gold / Platinum | Steel+Gold / Gold | Steel / Rolesor / Gold |
| Bracelet / Strap | Settimo or Alligator | Leather or Bracelet | President | Oyster / Jubilee | Oyster / Jubilee |
| Style | Elegant Dress Complication | Pure Dress | Prestige Formal | Travel / Complicated | Everyday Classic |
| Approx. Price (USD) | $59,000 – $72,800 | $25,000 – $45,000+ | $40,000 – $80,000+ | $15,000 – $55,000+ | $8,000 – $30,000+ |
Prices are approximate retail figures as of September 2026 and vary by configuration and market. The Perpetual Padellone is currently the only Rolex with an instantaneous annual calendar + meteorite moonphase.
Movement: Calibre 7190 and the Haplos System
At the heart is the entirely new, Rolex-manufactured calibre 7190—thinner than most Rolex movements yet running at a high 5 Hz (36,000 vph) with roughly 66 hours of power reserve. It builds on the architecture of the calibre 7135 (introduced with the Land-Dweller) and incorporates the Dynapulse silicon sequential-distribution escapement, Syloxi silicon hairspring, ceramic balance staff, and optimised Paraflex shock absorbers. These elements deliver strong resistance to magnetism and shocks while supporting the elevated frequency.
The annual-calendar mechanism is especially elegant. Rolex’s patented Haplos system uses just two additional components (an extra carrier finger and annual lever) coupled to the date mechanism. Month programming is integrated into the reverse of the month disc, allowing the watch to distinguish 30- and 31-day months automatically. Date, day, and month all jump instantaneously and simultaneously at midnight—a feature covered by patent applications. The moonphase remains independently adjustable. Superlative Chronometer certification (tightened further since 2026 with additional magnetism, reliability, and sustainability criteria) guarantees –2/+2 seconds per day after casing, backed by Rolex’s five-year international guarantee.
Who It’s For and How It Wears
This is a true dress-watch complication for modern wrists: thin enough for formal attire, distinctive enough to stand out among simpler time-only pieces, and technically advanced enough to satisfy enthusiasts who follow Rolex’s recent innovations in escapements and materials. The meteorite moons and instantaneous calendar jumps give it character beyond pure function.
Compared with the original 8171, the new Padellone is more practical (true annual calendar rather than full calendar requiring more frequent corrections) and benefits from exhibition case back, higher frequency, and contemporary finishing.
Pricing sits in the expected precious-metal Rolex range (roughly mid-to-high five figures USD depending on configuration and market; exact figures vary by region and authorised dealer). Availability is through Rolex retailers as part of the permanent collection rather than a limited edition.
FAQ
What is the new Rolex Perpetual Padellone and when was it released?
The Rolex Perpetual Padellone is a new 39 mm dress watch featuring an instantaneous complete annual calendar (day, date, month) and moonphase. It was released in mid-September 2026 as part of the Perpetual collection and is inspired by the rare 1940s–1950s reference 8171, nicknamed “Padellone.”
How much does the Rolex Perpetual Padellone cost in 2026?
Retail prices (approximate, vary by market) are around $59,000 for the 18 ct Everose gold version on brown alligator strap, $66,200 for the 950 platinum version on black alligator strap, and $72,800 for the Everose gold version on Settimo bracelet.
What are the key specifications of the Rolex Padellone (size, movement, power reserve)?
Case: 39 mm diameter, approximately 12.2 mm thick. Movement: in-house calibre 7190, automatic, 5 Hz (36,000 vph), ~66-hour power reserve. Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, instantaneous annual calendar (day/date/month), and moonphase. Water resistance: 50 metres.
What is the Haplos system in the Rolex Perpetual Padellone?
Haplos is Rolex’s patented annual-calendar system that uses only two additional components (an extra carrier finger and annual lever) to automatically distinguish between 30-day and 31-day months. The programming is built into the reverse of the month disc, so the watch only needs one manual adjustment per year (end of February).
How does the Rolex Perpetual Padellone differ from the original 8171 “Padellone”?
The original 8171 was a full calendar requiring more frequent corrections. The new model is a true annual calendar with instantaneous midnight jumps of day, date and month, a modern 5 Hz calibre 7190 with Dynapulse escapement, exhibition case back, meteorite moons, and contemporary finishing while keeping a similar 39 mm size and classic calendar layout.
Does the Rolex Padellone have a moonphase and is it made with meteorite?
Yes. It features a blue-enamelled moonphase disc at 6 o’clock that completes one rotation every 29.53 days. Both the full moon and new moon are made from meteorite (the new moon receives a dark-blue PVD coating), with pad-printed silver stars.
What materials and strap/bracelet options are available for the Perpetual Padellone?
Available in 18 ct Everose gold (intense white grained dial) or 950 platinum (ice-blue grained dial). Bracelet/strap choices: Everose gold Settimo seven-link bracelet with concealed Crownclasp, or matt brown/black alligator leather straps with Dualclasp.
Is the Rolex Perpetual Padellone a limited edition or part of the permanent collection?
It is part of Rolex’s permanent collection and is not a limited edition. It is available through authorised Rolex retailers worldwide.
What is the water resistance and case thickness of the new Rolex Padellone?
Water resistance is 50 metres (165 feet). Case thickness is approximately 12.2 mm.
How accurate is the calibre 7190 and does it have Superlative Chronometer certification?
Yes, it carries Superlative Chronometer certification (updated criteria since 2026). After casing, accuracy is guaranteed between –2 and +2 seconds per day. The movement also features high resistance to magnetism and shocks thanks to the Dynapulse escapement, Syloxi hairspring, and ceramic balance staff.
Verdict
The Perpetual Padellone successfully bridges Rolex’s mid-century calendar heritage with the brand’s current technical direction. Instantaneous calendar changes, the efficient Haplos system, Dynapulse escapement, and thoughtful details such as meteorite moons elevate it above a simple revival. For collectors seeking a refined, highly finished annual-calendar Rolex that feels both classic and current, it is one of the more compelling additions to the Perpetual line. It proves Rolex can still surprise outside the usual launch calendar while staying true to its standards of precision and wearability.
[photo credits: www.rolex.com]
0 Comments